Drawing techniques and materials: I usually use Strathmore or Canson drawing or sketching paper. I don't like using the cheapest papers because they won't take multiple erasures well (and I always have to erase something!). But, I don't break the bank using high-end paper either. Your run-of-the-mill drawing or sketching paper (acid-free, of course) is fine.

These days I use an inexpensive mechanical pencil, with a .05 mm pencil lead. HB, B, or 2B hardness are the best (the "default" lead hardness seems to be HB, and that works out okay most of the time). Also, a kneaded rubber eraser (found at most art stores) is essential. It erases small areas and can lighten (rather than obliterate) a spot on your drawing with greater sensitivity than regular "pink" erasers. However, the pink erasers are good for lifting up tougher-to-erase areas, so I keep them around too.

Koh-i-Noor Rapidopgraph technical pens are my favorite for pen and ink, 0 or 00 nibs. I try to keep the pens cleaned regularly (sometimes I fail at this, so the nib gets ruined). Ballpoint pens or fine-tipped felt pens are also occasionally used, but I prefer Rapidograph.

I only use the cross-hatch technique when drawing. I never really took to the whole "smudging" (some call it "blending") rendering method for pencil. Unfortunately, there too many washed-out, feeble examples of this technique (though when it's done well, it's a wonder to behold!). To me, cross-hatching has far more personality and character—there are a lot of different ways to crosshatch, so each individual artist's work will have a unique quality to it. It is also my belief that crosshatching allows the artist more control over shading and rendering.

As I state on the main page, all the faces you see here are drawn from my imagination (which explains why they all have a similar "look"). I developed the skill for drawing without reference (i.e. I don't need to look at a photograph or model) through repeated drawing practice. Practice, practice, practice! I really enjoy doodling and making up drawings out of my head, which explains why I will always strongly encourage newbie artists to learn how to draw freehand (without the aid of tracing or gridding). Freehand drawing allows the artist so much more control and freedom—not being restricted to always using a photo reference is a liberating feeling!

Drawing tips: First and foremost, don't give up if you are having a hard time! Drawing portraits is not a skill you are going to pick up overnight. It requires a lot of practice. Practice is really the most important element to success. Some people talk about "talent" (as in, "I haven't got any talent so there's no use in trying"), but let me tell you, sufficient practice has transformed a lot of people who assumed they had no talent into artists with real potential!

When drawing a face, occasionally look at your drawing in the mirror. For some reason, this allows you to see mistakes and errors that you won't otherwise notice. It's very common to see that you've made the face lopsided, the eyes crooked, or one side of the face narrower than the other side. Also, sometimes look at the drawing upside down. This can help you find lopsided areas or proportion problems as well.

GIVE YOUR DRAWING PROPER CONTRAST! By this I mean, proper lights and darks. So often I see pencil drawings that are made of lots of medium and light gray tones. This makes the sketch look washed-out. Make sure that you've drawn in the dark tones (like black hair and deep shadow) as DARK. Black or very dark gray—not a medium gray. Wait until you are almost finished with your drawing before putting in these darkest tones (they're not easy to erase if you make a mistake).